Osteria Guilio Pane e O'jo: Milan, Italy

Date:  11 decembre 2010
Location:  Via Ludovico Muratori, 10
20135 Milan, Italy
02 5456189
http://www.giuliopaneojo.com/

This day was meant to be.  All the stars aligned as 4 friends, who originally set to embark on two separate afternoon adventures, miraculously joined up by chance meeting in a flash of sliding doors.  Earlier that day, we had spent a rare and sunny (yet COLD!), most splendid and dreamy afternoon exploring winter Lake Como.  There, we enjoyed a slow lunch at Vecchio Varonna (in Varonna, Italy):  http://soledad-bleu-etoile.blogspot.com/2011/01/vecchio-varonna-varonna-italy.html 

Come evening, we had taken our siesta naps and were ready to eat again.  We reconvened at 10pm in the center of Milan.  Thankfully of the four of us, one was an Italian from Milan who led the search by car.  Ironically, he was also blonde.

I was a little worried, as we had not prepared reservations anywhere.  The first place we went to, the Il Cavallante Wine Bar, had a one hour wait.  Darn.  The boys were patient as they ducked into the nearby Osteria Guilio Pane to check on the wait there.  I was hungry and cold standing out in the winter snow of Milan with my girlfriend Marissa, yet still in positive holiday spirits.  I had a hunch the right thing would work out just fine...

Ten minutes later, we were invited into the warm and cozy Italian restaurant known for their Roman style pasta.  They created a make shift corner table for us - originally intended to seat 2, so we squished in and the two boys sat at the edge of the corner.  It was a comfortable and cozy feel.  :) Ohhhh how I shall never forget this place.  The best home made pasta prepared al dente with simple,  fresh ingredients.  It's a good thing I quit my diet as soon as I got on the plane from New York to Milan.  I could not stop eating the Spaghetti Margherita... plain pasta with fresh tomatoes and heavenly fresh grated parmesan cheese from the Mother Land.  And, perhaps the best panna cotta I've ever felt softly enveloping my tongue!  As you can see, there was none left... So simple, and yet magically fulfilling the soul.  I still dream of this place.  Hopefully, I can recreate something similar at home.  Or, just go to Milan all over again.  :)))))))

This place is very popular and well known for its delicious pasta and friendly atmosphere.  You feel like you're sitting in someone's dining room in Rome.  Come to think of it... this place reminds me a lot of Osteria Del Gallo in Rome.  http://www.osteriadelgalloroma.it/ Yes!  Same rustic charm and hand made pastas same day, to your table.  However, don't risk what we did, showing up without reservations.  The stars were aligned that magical day just for us! 

Vecchio Varonna: Varonna, Italy

Date:  11 decembre 2010
Location:  Contrada Scoscesa, 10
23828 Varenna (Lc) - Italy
Tel. e Fax: 0341 830793
http://www.vecchiavarenna.it/vecchiavarenna2/index.html

Lovely and quaint restaurant - with quite possibly one of the most well thought out and executed meals I experienced in the Milan region this last trip.  Arriving at the restaurant by foot is the climax to the picturesque and reminscent stroll on the footsteps of Lake Como, as described by the restaurant: "On the shore of the lake, in the foot-path, at the harbour (at the end of the lake walk)."

Link to the picture of walking directions:
http://www.vecchiavarenna.it/vecchiavarenna2/dovesiamo.html

The style of Italian cooking boasts seasonal ingredients as well as local fish from the pristine, crystal clear Lake Como.  If you've never been, the waters in this lake are absolutely sparkling.  It is very well preserved as a national park.  Absolutely a must-visit destination;  the drive is scenic and well worth the 1.5 hour trek.  Luckily we had a close friend who was our tourguide this very cold and beautiful, memorable day!

I had the best risotto of my life here.  Risotto Mantecato cooked with butter and  lake-fish ragout et marjoram.  The 4 of us ordered 2 risotta plates (serves 2 each) and of course there was nothing left.  Soledad style cleaned the plates with the delicious hot bread that was served.  One of our appetizers was a memorable Aubergine (eggplant) mini-tower prepared with delicate tomate et mozzarella and a very tasty balsamic chicken reduction sauce (I am guessing here, it was incredibly savory).  There was also an extremely fresh and vibrant salad that was dressed beautifully with tomato, olive, fish, and very a savory EVOO based dressing drizzled around the side.  We shared everything, so we also shared 2 additional main courses.  Rabbit served on polenta and another lake-fish served fresh with a delightful mixture of seasonal vegetables (squash, carrots, potatoe). 

Not to forget, naturally we started with Prosecco (Valdobbiadene Colmei al bicchiere Bisol et La Contea Triacca) and awhite from La Contea, Lombardy region.  A lot of white wine today due to the white fish dishes. 

Nearing the end of our eating experience, for our digestif I had my first ever taste of Braulio, a traditional Italian digestif.  Interesting and I would try it again!  Dessert consisted of a rich slice of homemade chocolate cake served with base of lemon (olive oil?) sauce and a generous dollop of mascarpone!  We finally ended with the must-have customary post-meal Italian espresso.  Probably had we not been the last patrons that late afternoon, we would have stayed on for another hour. 

It was a perfect late afternoon lunch, with the best of friends who came from all around the world to meet together on this happenstance weekend! San Francisco, New York, Geneva, and Milan. Typical Soledad style - bringing together an electic international mix of interesting friends from diverse backgrounds, makes for a very rich eating experience replete with amazing food and deep conversations.


Luckily for us, it was not the end of our day;  for we then ventured  back into Milan for siesta-pre-fiesta (yes, Soledad always mixing cultures) then went back out to eat again! 

Lavanderia Il Girasole di Maurizio: Milan, ITALY

Date:  dimanche 19 decembre 2010
Location:  Via Caterina Da Forli, 58, Milano  COIN LAUNDRY!

Tel: (+39)/(0)349 10 72 208

Metro:  Near MA Metro station Bande Nere

Hours:  Open 07:40-22:00 including Sundays!!

I had to blog about this experience, not knowing at the time what a big deal it was to do coin laundry in Italy (or other parts of Europe, apparently).  I brought my American habits to other places, much like bad drivers from China bring their scary driving habits to the US.  Later that evening I was told by colleagues that laundromat style laundry in Italy is a rare thing, and typically for Morrocans.  ?!? 

Had originally intended to be in just Milan for 1.5 week work trip.  Packed just a little over enough underwear and clothes. However a last minute work extension to Madrid meant only one thing.  Find laundromat asap else run around commando in Madrid.  Perhaps sexy idea, yet Soledad style usually means leaving options open (ie have underwear and clean tshirts and jeans rather than not).  Of course, I could have just thrown my laundry to the Hotel Una Tocq Milan in Corsa Como.  At an affordable 1.75EU for 1 undergarment (less than half the price of a late night street panini!) somehow told me that was not a wise business decision considering I had a full suitcase of lazy clothes that really just needed a domestic washer and dryer!  Also, the hotel lavanderie was closed weekends anyway.

Saturday I'd planned to go on an adventure and to the coin laundry at a Lavanderie that a friend had googled for me near 3am that Friday night prior.  Too bad I ended spending that entire Saturday until 630pm Milano time in my awesome hotel bed doing absolutely NOTHING.  Which left THE SUNDAY RUSH before early morning Monday MXP/MAD!  Very hard finding coin operated laundry in Milan.  Googled and only found two that Sunday.  Neither was nearby.  TAXI!  Hustled my dirty clothes into a suitcase, and called hotel lobby for taxi service.  Taxi driver was confused when I gave him directions to another part of town on that cold dreary Sunday afternoon... "Lavenderie" I told him.  He pointed out that it was not the closest and asked if I was meeting friends there LOL!... I asked for alternative coin laundry, which he did not know of any.  Okay then, so off we went. 

 
15-20 minutes and 21EUROS later (YES!!! that's perhaps the best part about this story), I was dropped off at a small coin-op laundry.  Inside were 4 washers and 2 dryers.  Not exactly the rows and rows we see in excess in US.  2 nice Italian ladies in side.  Thank God, as one of them showed me how to operate the machines (kind of difficult if you don't know the language).  Made my Euros coin-op change, tink tink tink, bought my mini detergent and fabric softner (more tink tink tink tink), et voila!  Laundry wash!  I even had a coin-op instand espresso machine on the wall which I happily and hastily used.  LOVE these coin-op espresso machines in Italy!!!! 

Went for a nice cold walk outside the laundromat and got some more espresso and sweets to eat... such a cool way to enjoy doing laundry on a Sunday (my last) afternoon in Milan!  Laundry done with STYLEZZZ MILAN STYLE!!!  Went back to load up my Dryer load, what a RELIEF to have clean laundry!!  Finally, stuffed it all back into my suitcase and hauled it back via Milan Metro underground back to citi-centre.  What an adventure!!!!

Perhaps the best part about this trip aside from the entire excursion above - might have been my taxi driver en route.  In his Italian accent "I LLiiiiIIKKKEEE CaliFORnia WOH-men!  They HAV-uh the BLOND-uh HAIrrrr!! I LIIKKEEE!  Please SEND me PAaMela ANderson!! Sometimes girl get LONEly and DEPressed... SEND to me in miLAAHNN I take CARE of BLONDE gurrl!!"  And the crazy look he gave me when after 2 or 3 times asking me "....MUSIC???" I finaly realized my iTouch was blaring in my purse... HAHHAHAHA.  So Soledad Blonde err. Bleu. 

 

N'ombra de Vin Milan: Milan, Italy

Date:  8 decembre 2010

Location:  Via San Marco, 2
20121 Milan, Italy
http://www.nombradevin.it/chi_siamo.asp?lan=IT

This is the perfect spot for a wine afficionado!  You enter into a small cafe resembling that of a French Bistro.  Then, you are taken down a flight of stairs on the right leading directly into the main dining hall - which is also a huge wine shop area.  This was once the dining hall of Augustinina friars (they knew how to live, apparently).  The space is absolutely warm and inviting.  I couldn't wait to sit down and have my very first dinner in Milan! 

You'll love their communal dining approach wihch simply furthers the "at home" feel of this dining room - a welcome invitation coming in from the cold of snowy winter Milan night.  This is a very cozy and romantic place, perfect for an intimate date or best friends reuniting. 

Beautiful wine list!  Always starting with bubbly in the local country, hence Prosecco tonight!  Onwards to a white from Lebanon, a red Cavalli, and another red (I will updated this blog soon as I find the menu!).  They serve delicious Jamon and truffle, and beautiful cheese plate served with truffle honey (marvelous). 

Unforunately I did not get to spend enough time in this place to research its Italian wines. However, I do know that its wine shop (dining room) has dedicated years to its search for high-quality wines, achieving an extensive range of labels of rare prestige.

A MUST TRY for first timers to Milan, lovers, and best friends!!

Panini Giusto: Milan, Italy

First eating experience in MILAN!  Thanks to the coolest Jcat who performed much due diligence prior to landing, we knew exactly where to catch a perfect FIRST BITE in our Milanese eating experience!  Having just touched down 8am local time (red eye flight from JFK and Frankfurt), we drove into Milan, checked into our swanky boutique hotel, got ourselves unpacked and situated, quickly caught up on work emails.. then off to noon lunch for a brief getaway in between more international conference calls (buzz kill!! but we are troopers and keepin it cool in between!).... yeaah cuz, we are just international cool kidz like that!

Bank holiday today in Milan, streets calm and empty.  Love the smell of moisture, drizzling rain, fog in the air.  Gray is what we see, and it's still so sexy cool.  I love Europe....  Soledad feels at home here! 

Very cute cafe.  Delicious house aged parma ham panini.  Savory tasting and fresh ingredients.  Rocket in Europe has such a distinctive taste!  Crunchy, characteristic tinge of bitterness, a litte sweet at the same time.  Ahhh and the TARTUFO PANINI Jcat ordered consisted of house parma ham seasoned in langhirino 24mo, brie cheese, tomato, arugula, TRUFFLE OIL... MMmmmmmMmMm!!!!!!  Sole's RE SOLE PANINI consisted of house parma ham seasoned in langhirino 24mo, mozzarella cheese, arugula, basil, arthichokes cream.  Paired with a sip of noon Prosecco... and finally un cafe to top it off! 

Jcat et Sole = GRAND CRU to the max, here to represent in MILANO!  Adventure just beginning... more to come in upcoming days!

Bar Agricole: San Francisco

Date:  vendredi 26 novembre 2010
Location:  355 11th Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
Tel:  (415) 355-9400
http://www.baragricole.com/

Agricole rum, made from pure can sugar (not molasses).  This new joint opened in August 2010.  I'd anxiously been awaiting its revealing, having known about its clandestine R&D beginnings a year prior from fellow friend and hot Ducati rider Eric Johnson, who is a Mixologist here.  These guys take their drinks seriously (but still fun!).  Backgrounds from San Francisco speakeasy Bourbon and Branch gives you an idea... though its not the place that makes the drink.  Its the Mixologist.  All the way.  

When other Sommeliers frequent a place for meetings, deal closings, or just to grab a drink, then you know that establishment is solid.  Bar Agricole is this kind of place.  Casual conversations taking place over bar area and tables frequently revolve around industry knowledge of food, wine and spirits and who or what is creatively pushing the envelope, carving new areas of opportunity.  


Cutting to the chase, why is Bar Agricole such a cool joint?  Because their drinks are refined, they specialize in fine rum and tequila, its one of 3 places in the city that has that sexy square block ice (Bar Agricole makes their own, my favorite of the 3), and the Mixologists know what they're doing, and do it without being a snob.  Patrons come here and are well taken care of enveloped in the height of fine spirits education - yet never pretentious.  I absolutely love this about San Francisco.  Only the very best of fine food and wine atmosphere but still casual cool, swanky, high street and hip.  Freedom loving vibe.  That's San Francisco for you.  No other way to live.  


Funny as I write this blog... another Master Somm friend pings me asking me what time I was at Bar Agricole last night as he got there around 1030pm PST.   told you.  This is the place if you want genuine good drink.


Quickly and finally - the sole reason I come here is for their Ti Punch.  Ain't nuthin punchy about this drink.  Pure 50 proof white agricole and lime zest, served on one solid block of defrosting ice.  They've got other fine, high end cocktail creations too... of the tequila, brandy, and whisky likes.  I love them all.  Though if forced to choose, I'll take the agricole rum.  Because it's rare and tastes like tamarind.... 


Thanks Eric Johnson and team for masterminding this place.  Knowing palates like Soledad's applaud and bow down.  5 solid drinks down last night and no hang over.  That's cuz it was the good shit.  Dam straight.  Well, off for my morning run!  Cheers all and big bisous, from the world of Sole.  


TI PUNCH:  with white agricole and lime zest.

 BOURBON OLD FASHIONED:  with two bitters.

 PRESIDENTE:  Haitian rum, farmhouse curacao, grenadine, orange bitters.

 RHUM DANDY:  with white agricole, sweet vermouth, lime, and absinthe.

 Bar agricole... the sexy swank bar.  Soledad's second home.

Bar agricole main dining floor.

LONG RHUM BUCK:  with ginger and lime.

Bar agricole secret sauces.... labeled just as in an apothecary...

Mixing spoons and straw in one.  Silver.  First time introduced to such.  LIKE.

TEQUILA COCKTAIL:  with sweet vermouth, stonefruit bitters, and orange.

 Soledad at ease.  Beautiful drink in hand.  Gorgeous and feeling sexy. 

The fresh fruits for the mixologists' concoctions.

 BROOKLYN COCKTAIL:  with whiskey, dry vermouth, amaro, maraska, and orange.

 

Chez Maman: Potrero Hill, SF

Date:  vendredi 19 novembre 2010
Address:  1453 18th Street
San Francisco, CA 94107-2801
Tel:  (415) 824-7166

French.  Cafe.  Bistro.  Escargot.  Onion Soup w melted cheeeese.  Crepes.  Un Cafe.  KIR ROYALE.  Decadent chillax on a drizzly, cold, late Friday afternoon for late breakfast/lunch.  Mmmmmm.  In my cool neighborhood Potrero Hill.  Love dining at the bar with a good friend and discussing on life's exciting, twisted journeys... 

PLOW: Potrero Hill, SF

Date:  dimanche 14 novembre 2010
Address:  1299 18th Street @ Texas
San Francisco, CA 94107

Nyom nyom nyom!!  PLOW is a new brekky/brunch joint that just opened a few blocks away from my house.  Potrero Hill hood of SF, where the cool cats hang out.  :)  I had heard about this place for some time from local and international friends in HK (of all places!).  Finally got to try it when I missed my Sunday morning 730am JFK flight out to NYC.   Blessing in disguise... breakfast in SF!

This place does great for a couple reasons.  The location and set up has great feng shui (Maxine, wife of husband/wife team is Chinese, it's a given).  The decor is contemporary (marble bar top, actually refurbished post office counter!), yet warm (gorgeous wood floors and heavy velvet curtains).  Huge ceiling windows let the sun drench in, while tilting in the San Franciscan breeze.  The clientele, relaxed and San Francisco "come as you are" as I like to describe.  Grungy Sunday garb, or respectable dress down, never purposed.   Didn't see any kids or strollers (yay!).  30's older crowd, the kind that knows discerning food, ambiance, and time with good company.   Finally, the food is savory and genuine and soooo down to earth.  I love how the cooks are bold and confident, and handle the food with their fingers.  That's how I cook.  Don't be afraid to touch the food! 

Plow was rightly named due to the idea that the food created here is natural and of the earth.  The colors of the food stays in line with overall clean, muted tones of the restaurant (no jalopy style cooking here).  Though, flavors are long lasting and keep you thinking for awhile to come.  I want to go back!  Coffee - very strong roasted... wood chips.  Mmmmmmm. 

I sat at the bar (Soledad's favorite seat in the house) and eagerly looked on as the cooks and Maxine prepare every dish with noticeable finishing detail.  Triangle bread slices places just right, sliced bananas caramelized perfect for banana french toast, eggs cooked to order with a little special magic.  My scrambled eggs were light and fluffy (probably added milk?).  Small syrup container tilted just right on my plate.  Lemon ricotta pancakes - small and cute, and delicious with lemony finish!