Yo'Ezer Meat and Wine Bar: Tel Aviv, Israel

Date: Various, Winter 2012

Location:  Yo'ezer ish habira 2, סמטת יועזר איש הבירה 2‎ Tel Aviv, Israel
The wine bar is on the inland (east) side of Yefet St, a few feet down an alley opposite the clock tower.
Telephone:  +972 03-683-9115

http://yoezer.com/

Pictured left, pioneer of journalistic food writing in Israel, Yo'Ezer owner Shaul Evron.

This is a cozy, sophisticated, gem of a find in the characteristic Old Jaffa neighborhood of Tel Aviv. I was invited to have lunch here one day by one of the world’s finest wine connoisseurs around, Monsieur Yair Haidu.  Tasting blind is the only way this gentleman tastes fine wines - a pretty darn precise palate to say the least.  Suffice to say, fine meals to follow dining in his company. 

Most of you know that I’m a flexible vegetarian. If foie is on the menu, I’m ordering it. If Kobe Beef is on the menu, I’m ordering it. If escargot is on the menu, you know the drill. Basically I'm eating meat only if it is very excellent quality.

Yo'Ezer specializes in meats.  But we’re not talking hunks of meats here.  Yo'Ezer cures their own meats, smokes their own salmon, etc.  It’s a finessed take on the preparation of fine meats.  Not the average Israel chock-it-up and drop-it-like-its hot-on-your-table type of restaurant experience by any means.  Quite the opposite, with a seemingly xperienced European approach.  Dishes are savory, possess a great amount of acidity (yay!) coupled with mellifluous harmony of seasonal ingredients.  Altogether, an awakening concoction is created on your palate.  There is a zing to each dish here which I'm still remembering as I scribe this from Hong Kong.

We entered Yo'Ezer through an arched cave underway, tucked inside a building dating back to the Crusader era. Already feeling very good! We joined Shaul at the bar, my preferred dining seating.  The ambiance at Yo Ezer is for the mature, refined, food and wine lover. People are speaking in low tones here, partaking in the slow eating of savory cheese plates, delighting themselves in the myriad of fine meat dishes, indulging in the famous rich and creamy 40-eggs pasta dish. 

Yo'Ezer also has an impressive wine list, as also dubbed by my San Francisco wine specialist friend Laely Heron (http://www.heronwines.com/) who recently visited Israel and Yo'Ezer with her local wine foodie friends.  This is another indicator that those in the international food and wine scene know that this is a critic's choice place to dine.   

I requested Chablis to start off our lunch, since I was a kid in a candy store seeing the fresh raw oysters Shaul was deliciously eating up.  Shaul offered me an oyster from his plate too.  I was elated!  Harbinger to a guaranteed splendid long, languid, Soledad style luncheon.  I was quite happy.

Yo'Ezer also makes the best cocktails in Israel. Hailing from San Francisco (where we coined the term “mixologist” as opposed to “bartender”), I’m pretty snobbish about my cocktails. Tinctures vs. bitters, shaken vs. stirred, artisan ice vs. crushed, that’s the kind of detailed cocktail I’m talking about. Those details aren't just for looks or being trendy either.  They have every bit to do with temperature, composition, and refined taste per drink made that I expect in my glass.  I liked the Sidecar that the head bartender at Yo'Ezer made for me. I remembered it.

Below photos are what became a gastronomic feast that I would rate as one of my top lunch experiences globally.  For the international food and wine lover, Yo'Ezer is a gem of its kind in Israel and maybe even the world. I will definitely be back.

Sweet, delicate fresh oysters. Right amoubt of brine.

Sheeps brain, egg yolk, bread.  A rich and exotic surprise to my palate.

A medley of finely cured meats and salmon delight, with a paired side of egg salad with the right amount of acidity balancing the protein dishes.

Extremely memorable pairing of lox, mini pancake, and artisan cream cheese spread.  Again, showcasing proper acidity paired with right creamy texture and fluffy sweetness of mini pancake.

Savory beef bourguignon - if I were a carnivore I would not have shared this dish.

Perhaps my favorite dish of all!  A seemingly pedestrian style dish, however amazed with its succulent combination of savory and sour, right acidity, and absolutely perfect textural pairings of meat, smooth potatoe, crispy pickles, and pickled sauerkraut.  Not such a pedestrian dish afterall.   

Ahhh, very nicely prepared pasta al dente.   Just like they make it in Italy.  Prepared with juicy combination of stewed beef and fresh pecorino cheese shaved on top.

Pretty good Sidecar cocktail.  Soledad favorite still lies with Spuce SF, however (http://soledad-bleu-etoile.blogspot.com/2009/11/spruce-sf-san-francisco.html).

May very be the best Spanish style flan I've had all of my global culinary adventures... Perfect creaminess, perfect texture on top, perfect caramel butterscotch sauce.



Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia: Milan, Italy

Date:  jeudi 2 octobre 2011
Location:  Via Montecuccoli 6
Milano, Italy
Telephone:  +39 02 416886
http://www.aimoenadia.com/

At Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia, I had one of the nicest, most beautiful, memorable eating experiences ever.  Big statement coming from me, a well traveled citizen of the world constantly in search of exquisite in food, wine, and service.  I have an affinity for all things Italian - espresso, pasta, pizza, buffala mozzarella, designer shoes, and of course, Italian wine.  Because some of my best friends live in Milano, my admiration of Italy continues to grow each year (the little Mafia - you know who you are!).

Currently based in Israel, I longed for truly authentic Italian food - was badly craving al dente pasta!  In my opinion, one must travel to the source.  I longed for authentic Italian dishes kneaded by Italian fingertips.  I was on a mission to replenish myself by eating and drinking well.  Prior my departure, I performed the obligatory restaurant search for top restaurants and sent my short list (Sadler, Aimo e Nadia, Cracco, Trussardi all Scala) to a fellow Italian consultant friend.  His remarks on Aimo were as follows:

"Aimo e Nadia, is considered the best restaurant in Milan (even in North Italy) and is very innovative in the type of food. It is superexpensive though – I think that for a ‘simple’ dinner you won’t pay less then 300 Eur (wine excluded) – there are some signature dishes that made the place very famous (you should check them out before going) . It was the only 10 few years ago on the guide to Milanese restaurant."

When I arrived at Aimo for lunch, it was a quiet, sunny, small street in Milan.  The doorway was well marked and gave me the feeling of entering an art gallery.  I smiled - because I felt welcomed into this comfortable, quiet, sophisticated landscape.  Outside the restaurant walls were also abstract paintings which further led to the art gallery feel.  Some with sketches of Aimo himself.  I loved walking into this kind of ambiance, a sophisticated and polished - yet still warm and inviting atmosphere.  There was someone to greet me as I entered.  In this case, it was Nicola Dell'agnolo, the Maitre D' - who shares that "Here, at Aimo e Nadia's, the most important thing is feeling welcomed."  I remember Nicola being the person who added the "human touch" to the already marvelously perfect creations prepared for me in Aimo e Nadia's kitchen.  It is the kind of warmth and service I seek - which can be somewhat of a lost art in today's world of "fine" dining.  It's a feeling of connecting and feeling welcome.  As an opinionated wine and food connoisseur, its these kind of personal and touching experiences that I remember most these days - behind a bevy of sublime artful dishes consumed over the years.

Since I'd been starved of nice wines in Israel, I was on  rampage to engulf myself silly with fantastic wines in Italy.  I was extremely pleased that Aimo had a very impressive wine list - served by the glass!  My ogling eyes went straight to the 2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles (French Chardonnay) - whoowhee!  And when in Rome do as Romans, so I also ordered an Italian 2008 Borgo Del Tiglio (Italian Chardonnay).  But, before Nicola helped me to my wines, he first graciously offered me a glass of Italian sparkling wine - NV Caves du Vin Blanc Extreme Brut Metodo Classico - and I did not refuse.  Perfect way to start a loooong, slow lunch... pampering myself in Italy... with a beautiful, light, creamy butter colored, bubbling glass of sparkling... 

For my red, I wavered between a Barbaresco and Barolo.  Nicola explained to me the 2005 Barolo Bartolo Mascarello was an excellent vintage, even though usually I prefer Barbaresco.  I trusted him and he was right.  :) 

NV Caves du Vin Blanc Extreme Brut Metodo Classico, an elegant way to start the long Italian lunch.

Nicola opening my two old world Chardonnays at my table for me... with ease and perfection.  I love my perfect stemware too.  Oh, and Wilson, my blue eating partner for the afternoon.  :)

A PERFECT glass of 2006 1er Cru Puligy Montrachet Les Pucelles.  Absolute dream on the palate.  Acidity, minerality, balanced, flint, aromas of lemon, baked lemon cake......  

2008 Borgo Del Tiglio vis a vis 2006 1er Cru Puligy Montrachet Les Pucelles... ah, even the Italians will admit the Leflaive is the more elegant of the two.  :)

 2005 Barolo Bartolo Mascarello

I chose the tasting menu after being torn between a la carte (because I needed to have pasta), and the tasting menu which providing many pleasing choices but didn't include any pasta dishes....  Somehow Nicola must have felt bad for me, because later on he snuck in a tasting of the most perfectly al dente seasoned pasta EVER... a bite sized morsel of gorgeous pasta, wrapped perfectly just for me and placed gently on my warm serving plate.  I have pictures to prove it.  I was absolutely elated!   

What later came throughout that afternoon was an orgy of gastronomic food fare... Aimo himself (in his 70s) also came out to greet every single one of his patrons.  This is a practice of his, constantly being engaged with his kitchen and his customers.  I was honored.  Aimo doesn't speak much English, so we exchanged nods as I let him know approvingly that each and every meticulous dish that arrived to me was an absolute work of art.

For anyone visiting Milan and is a true connoisseur of fine food and service - Aimo e Nadia is a MUST. 

Aimo himself, one of the most revered chefs in Italy... taking his time to personally welcome and greet each guest in his dining room.  Here, the table next to me was a group of low-tone speaking Italian men... all I imagined was that they were some kind of Italian mafia, in their fine Italian suits... :)  

  

A little amuse bouche before the grand lunch tasting begins..

Beautiful Italian breadsticks, perfect pairing with the Italian sparking wine.

Italian swordfish starter, on the house... a lovely welcome.  So delicate and savory... 

Fried fresh porcini mushrooms with zucchini, their flowers, buffalo's mozzarella, pine-nuts from Tuscany, with blueberry sauce and cocoa flavor.

Green tortellini made of nettles and semolina filled with shrimp, buffalo mozzarella and leeks, with sauce of shrimp juice and tomato.

"Pulcinella" Italian sword fish with "trombetta" zucchini, anchovies from Monterosso with green beans in their juice.

Rump of veal from Piedmont cooked pink in olive oil aromatized with herbs with vegetables and olives pesto and sauce of rubarb and vervain.

Close up shot before I take the savory bite...

The most delicious juices all over... and freshest, most sophisticated, fine quality ingredients.  

My perfect spoonful dollop of pasta... paired exquisitely with my Puligny Montrachet... as you look behind my blueman Wilson eating partner, you'll see another gentleman who also came to dine alone for lunch that day.  True food connoisseurs we are!

Small selection of Italian cheeses.  Wow these were just lovely with my wines.  All too perfect. 

Pre-dessert.  A delightful palate cleanser.  

Sweet garden:  eggplant hemisphere with chocolate, basil, and balm sorbet.  

Little macarons with smiley face. 

Of course, un espresso!  The Italian way.

A tour of the kitchen by Nicola... a small but extremely clean, tidy, and efficient kitchen.  This is where the magic is created.

My final bill... every Euro worth it!

And of course... Soledad would dream of nothing less than fine dining in Ferragammo's.  My lovely Princess Chiara tells me "Eheh, no wonder I like your shoes!"

Exquisite fine dining at Aimo e Nadia... I will be back soon.