Showing posts with label italian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label italian. Show all posts

Thursday, February 02, 2012

Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia: Milan, Italy

Date:  jeudi 2 octobre 2011
Location:  Via Montecuccoli 6
Milano, Italy
Telephone:  +39 02 416886
http://www.aimoenadia.com/

At Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia, I had one of the nicest, most beautiful, memorable eating experiences ever.  Big statement coming from me, a well traveled citizen of the world constantly in search of exquisite in food, wine, and service.  I have an affinity for all things Italian - espresso, pasta, pizza, buffala mozzarella, designer shoes, and of course, Italian wine.  Because some of my best friends live in Milano, my admiration of Italy continues to grow each year (the little Mafia - you know who you are!).

Currently based in Israel, I longed for truly authentic Italian food - was badly craving al dente pasta!  In my opinion, one must travel to the source.  I longed for authentic Italian dishes kneaded by Italian fingertips.  I was on a mission to replenish myself by eating and drinking well.  Prior my departure, I performed the obligatory restaurant search for top restaurants and sent my short list (Sadler, Aimo e Nadia, Cracco, Trussardi all Scala) to a fellow Italian consultant friend.  His remarks on Aimo were as follows:

"Aimo e Nadia, is considered the best restaurant in Milan (even in North Italy) and is very innovative in the type of food. It is superexpensive though – I think that for a ‘simple’ dinner you won’t pay less then 300 Eur (wine excluded) – there are some signature dishes that made the place very famous (you should check them out before going) . It was the only 10 few years ago on the guide to Milanese restaurant."

When I arrived at Aimo for lunch, it was a quiet, sunny, small street in Milan.  The doorway was well marked and gave me the feeling of entering an art gallery.  I smiled - because I felt welcomed into this comfortable, quiet, sophisticated landscape.  Outside the restaurant walls were also abstract paintings which further led to the art gallery feel.  Some with sketches of Aimo himself.  I loved walking into this kind of ambiance, a sophisticated and polished - yet still warm and inviting atmosphere.  There was someone to greet me as I entered.  In this case, it was Nicola Dell'agnolo, the Maitre D' - who shares that "Here, at Aimo e Nadia's, the most important thing is feeling welcomed."  I remember Nicola being the person who added the "human touch" to the already marvelously perfect creations prepared for me in Aimo e Nadia's kitchen.  It is the kind of warmth and service I seek - which can be somewhat of a lost art in today's world of "fine" dining.  It's a feeling of connecting and feeling welcome.  As an opinionated wine and food connoisseur, its these kind of personal and touching experiences that I remember most these days - behind a bevy of sublime artful dishes consumed over the years.

Since I'd been starved of nice wines in Israel, I was on  rampage to engulf myself silly with fantastic wines in Italy.  I was extremely pleased that Aimo had a very impressive wine list - served by the glass!  My ogling eyes went straight to the 2006 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles (French Chardonnay) - whoowhee!  And when in Rome do as Romans, so I also ordered an Italian 2008 Borgo Del Tiglio (Italian Chardonnay).  But, before Nicola helped me to my wines, he first graciously offered me a glass of Italian sparkling wine - NV Caves du Vin Blanc Extreme Brut Metodo Classico - and I did not refuse.  Perfect way to start a loooong, slow lunch... pampering myself in Italy... with a beautiful, light, creamy butter colored, bubbling glass of sparkling... 

For my red, I wavered between a Barbaresco and Barolo.  Nicola explained to me the 2005 Barolo Bartolo Mascarello was an excellent vintage, even though usually I prefer Barbaresco.  I trusted him and he was right.  :) 

NV Caves du Vin Blanc Extreme Brut Metodo Classico, an elegant way to start the long Italian lunch.

Nicola opening my two old world Chardonnays at my table for me... with ease and perfection.  I love my perfect stemware too.  Oh, and Wilson, my blue eating partner for the afternoon.  :)

A PERFECT glass of 2006 1er Cru Puligy Montrachet Les Pucelles.  Absolute dream on the palate.  Acidity, minerality, balanced, flint, aromas of lemon, baked lemon cake......  

2008 Borgo Del Tiglio vis a vis 2006 1er Cru Puligy Montrachet Les Pucelles... ah, even the Italians will admit the Leflaive is the more elegant of the two.  :)

 2005 Barolo Bartolo Mascarello

I chose the tasting menu after being torn between a la carte (because I needed to have pasta), and the tasting menu which providing many pleasing choices but didn't include any pasta dishes....  Somehow Nicola must have felt bad for me, because later on he snuck in a tasting of the most perfectly al dente seasoned pasta EVER... a bite sized morsel of gorgeous pasta, wrapped perfectly just for me and placed gently on my warm serving plate.  I have pictures to prove it.  I was absolutely elated!   

What later came throughout that afternoon was an orgy of gastronomic food fare... Aimo himself (in his 70s) also came out to greet every single one of his patrons.  This is a practice of his, constantly being engaged with his kitchen and his customers.  I was honored.  Aimo doesn't speak much English, so we exchanged nods as I let him know approvingly that each and every meticulous dish that arrived to me was an absolute work of art.

For anyone visiting Milan and is a true connoisseur of fine food and service - Aimo e Nadia is a MUST. 

Aimo himself, one of the most revered chefs in Italy... taking his time to personally welcome and greet each guest in his dining room.  Here, the table next to me was a group of low-tone speaking Italian men... all I imagined was that they were some kind of Italian mafia, in their fine Italian suits... :)  
  
A little amuse bouche before the grand lunch tasting begins..

Beautiful Italian breadsticks, perfect pairing with the Italian sparking wine.

Italian swordfish starter, on the house... a lovely welcome.  So delicate and savory... 


Fried fresh porcini mushrooms with zucchini, their flowers, buffalo's mozzarella, pine-nuts from Tuscany, with blueberry sauce and cocoa flavor.

Green tortellini made of nettles and semolina filled with shrimp, buffalo mozzarella and leeks, with sauce of shrimp juice and tomato.

"Pulcinella" Italian sword fish with "trombetta" zucchini, anchovies from Monterosso with green beans in their juice.

Rump of veal from Piedmont cooked pink in olive oil aromatized with herbs with vegetables and olives pesto and sauce of rubarb and vervain.

Close up shot before I take the savory bite...

The most delicious juices all over... and freshest, most sophisticated, fine quality ingredients.  

My perfect spoonful dollop of pasta... paired exquisitely with my Puligny Montrachet... as you look behind my blueman Wilson eating partner, you'll see another gentleman who also came to dine alone for lunch that day.  True food connoisseurs we are!

Small selection of Italian cheeses.  Wow these were just lovely with my wines.  All too perfect. 

Pre-dessert.  A delightful palate cleanser.  

Sweet garden:  eggplant hemisphere with chocolate, basil, and balm sorbet.  

Little macarons with smiley face. 

Of course, un espresso!  The Italian way.

A tour of the kitchen by Nicola... a small but extremely clean, tidy, and efficient kitchen.  This is where the magic is created.

My final bill... every Euro worth it!

And of course... Soledad would dream of nothing less than fine dining in Ferragammo's.  My lovely Princess Chiara tells me "Eheh, no wonder I like your shoes!"

Exquisite fine dining at Aimo e Nadia... I will be back soon.

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

Emporio Rulli Gran Cafe: San Francisco



Date:  vendredi 2 octobre 2009
 
Location:  2300 Chestnut Street
San Francisco, CA 94123-2610
Tel:  +1 415 923 6464

http://www.rulli.com/ 

Last Monday, lundi 28 Septembre 2009, I was in Abruzzo, Italy.  I tasted wines through over 13 regions and feasted on "slow food" by two of Abruzzo's most cherished culinary stars.  It just so happened that 4 days later, their cooking tour landed them in San Francisco at the Emporio Rulli Gran Caffe.  Ercole and Stefano Fasciocco are two brothers from the Guardia Vomano (the Teramo region of Abruzzo).  They are the latest of several generations of the Fasciocco family to run the Antica Macelleria Fasciocco, a butcher shop.  But these two brothers do more than what Americans would expect of a butcher.  They buy animals only from small scale local farmers.  They are artisan "salumieri," making many types of sausages and cured meats.  They are also reknowned as the best meat cooks in the Guardia Vomano region.  They came to SF to prepare their famous PORCHETTA DINNER for us, a specialty of the Abruzzo region. 

They had beautiful olive skin like that of most Italians, and piercing dark eyes and the darkest of dark hair.  Perhaps some of the mystery about them may have lay in the language barrier, who knows.  Whatever it is, they were strong men. 

I arrived at the restaurant late, as usual.  My friends were already outside on the Emporio Rulli patio sitting comfortably under the heated lamps.  Liberata, the gracious sommelier whom I met also in Abruzzo early on Monday, greeted me with the typical CIAO CIAO KISS KISS on each cheek.  There is just something so warm about being in the company of Italian and Spanish people.  I really enjoy these cultures and its peoples.   

My first glass of wine (pictured here to the RIGHT) was the La Maschera Prosecco (which you may have read about in my review from Abruzzo).  Wonderful way to begin a Friday evening.  I have to reiterate that this prosecco retails for about $10US per bottle.  It is a steal and so easy to drink! 

Appetizers consisted of seafood and salatini starters.  They were perfectly and delicately prepared in bite sized portions.  I loved it with the prosecco.  The evening was warm, and I was in the company of fabulous friends, two whom were visiting from Chicago.  

We all moved to the dining room for dinner.  We were served two famous dishes representational of the Abruzzo region:  TIMBALLO ALLA TERAMANA (Teramo style oven baked pasta, tomato sauce, eggs, veal, and mozzarella).  The last time I tasted anything similar was in Rome at Osteria Del Gallo http://www.osteriadelgalloroma.it/galleria.html.  I learned this evening that it is not customary to add fresh cracked pepper to dishes served in the Abruzzo region fashion.  I could appreciate this, despite being a true fresh cracked pepper fanatic.  The main dish of the evening was the PORCHETTA DI CAMPLI (overn roasted porchetta), served simply with rosemary cubed potatoes and simple green beans.  I loved it.  I imagined myself transported back to Abruzzo, Italy.  Dining in the company of warm friends also made the evening just perfect.  


Finally, dessert was served.  PAROZZO D'ANNUNZIO CON TARALLUCCI (chocolate glazed almond cake with grape must [mosto cotto] cookies).  OH MY GOODNESS this dessert not only looked heavenly (pictured here to the RGHT) - they tasted every scrumptious morsel just as lovely.  I was already stuffed, but the delicious grape must inside the moon shaped cookies literally made my eyes roll back in my head.